February 11 Campbell Island

Lying like stepping-stones to the Antarctic continent are the little-known Subantarctic Islands. Weather permitting, we were to visit some of those remote island - The Snares, Auckland, Macquarie and Campbell Islands on our way to and from Antarctica. The original plans had been to visit many of these islands on our way south but with COVID spreading its claws across land and oceans alike, Macquarie Island said 2 weeks isolation before you can visit us. So with some last minute and clever rejigging, we changed our route and headed for Campbell Island to visit Macquarie Island and the orher islands on the way back from Antarctica. 

What a delight after almost 2 days from when we cast off from Bluff and after sailing through pretty rough seas, we arrived at Campbell Island - and quiet waters. Tranquility!  It was a wonderful respite. 

Formed by volcanic eruptions, Campbell Island is the southernmost island on the New Zealand continental landmass. It’s home to the Southern Royal Albatross as well as other bird species but importantly for me. were its mega herb fields. Unfortunately, most plants I came across were not in full bloom when we visited but I was told there were bigger fields of these beauties on the high plateau. Sadly, I wasn’t up to the climb wearing gumboots 2-3 sizes too big - add to that a dose of vertigo from the rocking and rolling of the ship over the previous couple of days. However, we were to visit 3 more Subantarctic Islands later in the voyage, so I had my fingers crossed to see more flowers.  I found other fascinating planrs on the lower slopes.  One the Pleurophyllum criniferum has very unusual flowers - dark purple disk florets which have no petals. The leaves are huge, measuring up to 1m long. The stems are snowy white. Quite stunning.My book was coming in handy! I came across other interesting species including many Acaena minor which is endemic to Campbell and Auckland Islands (another of the Subantarctic Islands). Another plant I was able to identify was Bulbinella sp. One could get quite absorbed and easily missed reboarding the ship.

The island is covered in a beautiful array of grasses and ferns as well as Rata forests and mega herbs.

Top R+L - Pleurophyllum criniferum a strange giant perennial daisy. 
Bottom R - Acaena minor and bottom L an example of Bulbinella sp.

Although Lindsay and I didn’t climb to the top of the island to visit the albatross breeding colony, we went exploring through a dwarf Rata thicket and stumble upon a wee baby Hookers Sea Lion and its huge mum just dozing. We didn’t dwell long for fear of stressing mum and bub - and especially because mum was massive and probably could have outrun us - and she had one eye on us!  This thicket was a long way from the water and quite high on a cliff but the sea lions manage to haul themselves up here to birth and suckle their young. We saw sea lions much further inland later in the voyage. 

The Rata thicket where mum and baby Hooker Sea Lion were resting